Vietnam's capital, Hanoi, ranks among the world's most attractive and interesting cities. Originally named Thang Long, it was first the capital of Vietnam in 1010, and even when the nation's capital moved to Hue under the Nguyen Dynasty in 1802 the city continued to flourish, especially after the French took control in 1888. In 1954, after the French departed, Hanoi was declared Vietnam's capital once again. The city boasts 1,000 years of history, and that of the past few hundred years is marvelously preserved.

Hanoi has a reputation, doubtless accrued from the American war years, as a dour northern political outpost. While the city is certainly smaller, slower, and far less developed than chaotic Saigon, and there are some vestiges of Soviet-influenced concrete monolith architecture, there are some beautiful, quiet streets and neighborhoods in Hanoi, and such placid air gives it a gracious, almost regal flavor. The city is dotted with dozens of lakes small and large, around which you can usually find a cafe, a pagoda or two, and absorbing vignettes of street life. Hanoi's 3.5 million residents all seem to be in constant motion, as part of the endless stream of motorbike and bicycle traffic, but there are plenty of quiet corners and tranquil neighborhoods to explore.

Among Hanoi's sightseeing highlights are the Ho Chi Minh mausoleum and museum, the National Art Museum, the grisly Hoa Lo prison (also known as the infamous Hanoi Hilton), and the Old Quarter, whose ancient winding streets are named after the individual trades practiced there. Hanoi is also Vietnam's cultural center. The galleries, puppetry, music, and dance performances are worth staying at least a few days to take in. You might also want to use the city as a base for excursions to Halong Bay, to Cuc Phuong nature reserve, or north to Sapa.

Getting There

By Plane -- Hanoi, along with Ho Chi Minh City, is a major international gateway.

The airport is located about a 45-minute drive outside the city. If you haven't booked a hotel transfer through your hotel, an airport taxi costs $10. To save a few dollars, you can take the Vietnam Airlines minivan into town. It costs $2 for a drop-off at the Vietnam Airlines office, but sometimes for an extra buck you can get the driver to drop you at your hotel.

By Train -- Hanoi Railway Station, on the western edge of Hoan Kiem district (120 Le Duan; tel. 04/942-3949), is a terminal stop on the Reunification Railroad. For $35, you'll get a comfortable, air-conditioned soft-berth to Hue, and the same is $87 to Ho Chi Minh. Buying tickets at the stations is easy (but takes time), and any travel agent can handle it for a small fee.

By Bus -- Traveler cafe open-tour options are numerous in the Old Quarter on Hang Bac or Hang Be. Service and price are similar: About $27 earns you an open-tour ticket from Hanoi to Saigon with all stops in between.

Getting Around

Hanoi is divided into districts. Most sites and accommodations are in Hoan Kiem District (downtown), centered around picturesque Hoan Kiem Lake, and Ba Dinh (west of town) districts or Hai Ba Trung (south). Most addresses include a district name. You'll want to plan your travels accordingly because getting from district to district can be time-consuming and expensive.

By Bus -- Hanoi has only buses in the way of public transport. They are extremely crowded, and using them is difficult if you don't speak Vietnamese.

By Taxi -- Taxis can be hailed off the street, at hotels, and at major attractions. The meter should read 14,000 VND (90¢) to start, and 4,000 to 5,000 VND (about 30¢) for every kilometer thereafter. You can call ahead (or ask at any front desk or concierge) to contact a few companies, including Vina Taxi (tel. 04/811-1111), 52 Taxi (tel. 04/852-5252), or Taxi CP (04/826-2626). Make sure the cabbie turns on the meter. Be sure to get your change; drivers often seek a surreptitious tip by claiming that they don't have the change. Tell the driver that you'll wait until it's obtained, and it will materialize. Warning: Stick with accredited taxi companies; some independents rig meters. If you have any problems, take your case to the concierge of your hotel.

By Car -- Renting a car is convenient. Book a car with driver from $33 a day (or $5 per hr., minimum 3 hr.). If an upscale hotel quotes you more, call a tourist cafe (combination eateries and travel agents) or any travel agent.

By Motorbike -- Motorcycle taxis are a cheap and easy way to get around the city, but they go like madmen, so this is only for the brave. With haggling, pay about 10,000 VND (65¢) for short trips, or $1 by the hour. Self-rental at the tourist cafes starts at $6 for the day and is only for the brave.

By Cyclo -- Cyclos are two-seated carts powered by a man on a foot-pedal bike riding behind you. Flag them down anywhere (these guys find you). Being trundled along among whizzing motorcycles isn't always very comfortable, but it is a fun option for touring the Old Quarter. Pay as low as 10,000 VND (65¢) for a short ride, and 15,000 VND ($1) for a longer haul, or by the hour for about 30,000 VND ($2). If you're inclined, they'll let you try and ride just for fun.

By Bicycle -- Rental costs about $1 from a hotel or tourist cafe. The traffic is daunting, but the brave learn quickly how to just join the flow.

Visitor Information & Tours

Most tour companies are based in Saigon; however, many have branches in Hanoi. Operators can usually assist with local tours as well as countrywide services.

Ann Tours (18 Duong Thanh St., Hoan Kiem District; tel. 04/923-1366; fax 08/832-3866; www.anntours.com). This company offers private deluxe tours to Halong Bay and elsewhere. Frommer's readers write to tell us of their good experiences with this operation.

Buffalo Tours (13 Hang Muoi; tel. 04/828-0702; www.buffalotours.com). This reputable outfit offers a range of standard tours and some good eco-adventures, like cycling, trekking, and kayaking. Its boat, The Jewel of the Bay, is a great choice for trips in Ha Long. Friendly and professional staff.

Exotissimo (26 Tran Nhat Duat St.; tel. 04/828-2150; fax 04/828-2146; www.exotissimo.com). Comprehensive services.

Handspan (80 Ma May St.; tel. 04/962-0446; fax 04/926-0445; www.handspan.com). A good option for organized trips around Hanoi or adventures to the northern hills and Halong Bay.

Tourist Cafes

A good option for tours and transport or for 1- or 2-day excursions is to book with one of the tourist cafes, which are small eateries, Internet cafes, and travel agents all rolled into one. For good, affordable seat-in-tour coach, try:

Sinh Café (25 Hang Be St., Hoan Kiem District; tel. 04/926-1288; fax 04/756-7862; www.sinhcafevn.com)

A-Z Queen Café (65 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem District; tel. 04/826-0860; fax 04/826-0300; www.azqueentravel.com)

Kim Tours (82 Ma May St., Hoan Kiem District; tel. 04/926-0804)

An Phu Tours (50 Yen Phu, Hanoi; tel. 04/927-3585)