No one can truly say they know London well. To
know
London completely is impossible. London changes faster than pigeons
descending into the fountains of Trafalgar Square. Home to inhabitants
for over 2,000 years now London has grown from the protective circle of
the Tower to a sprawling metropolis, the ideal platform for constant
illustrious activity.
Always where there is history there are tales to
tell.
Tourists are naturally drawn to the regular tourist attractions, yet it
is the true travellers that seek deeper to find the gems of a 2,000
year-old town. It only takes a very small amount of investigating to
find something more rewarding, more interesting, more inspiring in
London, than the London Dungeons (although it must be said – is a damn
good laugh if you can bear the hour long queues!).
For instance, not even a minute’s walk from the
London
Dungeons is the Hay’s Galleria. This gem is for some totally bizarre
reason hidden from all guidebooks and tourist information – no doubt to
preserve its lack of thousands of tourists making it a less exclusive
haven. Please go there! It’s a beautiful indoor/outdoor menagerie of a
few select shops, with a vast concourse of cafes, market stalls, bands,
presentations, and of course, it overlooks a beautiful part of the
Thames.
Turn right from Hays Galleria and you find
yourself in a
Thames-side walkway next to the newest buildings in town. The
architecture is phenomenal, and these lord-mayor buildings are still so
new that you can imagine that the cellophane has just freshly been
peeled off all the windows. You are welcome to enter the Lord Mayor’s
building (it’s the one shaped like a golf ball), go to the top and
marvel at the mind-boggling roundness of it all – plus of course see
the spectacular views of the HMS Belfast, Tower Bridge & the Tower
of London. Continue strolling directly into the I-Witness open-air
gallery, before maybe snacking on a hot-dog in the mini-fairground.
Walk past the green that previously hosted many
Hollywood film premieres in giant marquees, the David Blaine in-a-box
episode, plus many other varied events, and you are literally
underneath Tower Bridge, keep walking and you are now in Shad Thames, a
true delight of traffic-free, cobbled streets full of people, giving
you a precise feeling of how the London streets felt hundreds of years
ago. It is as if these streets have been restored from long ago, thus
delivering to the traveller a wonderfully rich blend of old and new in
the same vicinity. Circle around Shad Thames, past the ever-changing
Design-Museum, and find yourself in Butlers Wharf, a charming quay-side
collection of bars & restaurants all overlooking the Thames
opposite the equally picturesque St Katherine’s Dock. Trust me when I
tell you that Butlers Wharf is the ultimate in romantic settings.
Hays Galleria to Butlers Wharf is one walk of
quite
possibly hundreds to choose from, in fact – that’s a whole day right
there! There are equal delights even if you turned left out of Hay’s
Galleria instead, especially the Clink Street Prison Museum, Vinopolis
(Wine Museum), Borough Market, Southwark Cathedral, I could go on….
Great streets, great walks, great museums (forget
the
big-ones – go to the Children’s museum in Bethnal Green for a real
treat). It is frustrating to think that the bulk of visitors to London
wind up staying in some of the least interesting areas. Paddington
& Bayswater are both great areas, being so close to Hyde Park &
Kensington Gardens (now home to the finally-completed Princess Diana
shrine). Kensington & Earls Court have their highlights too, but
there is more to London than the tried and tested tourist routes.
I recently stayed in a five star hotel in the
middle of
the city on the weekend for less than one hundred pounds a night, and
was amazed at exactly how completely empty the city of London was. I
was in heaven! There I was in the middle of one of the oldest cities
around, and I had it all to myself! City hotels are notorious for being
completely empty on weekends, hence the great rates. I am sure tourists
pay over the hundred pounds per night threshold to stay in ‘trendy’
Kensington etal, when they could easily stay next to Tower Bridge, St
Paul’s, Millennium Bridge etc, for much less.
Needless to say that the City of London (the
financial
centre) is absolutely coloured with history, everywhere you go there
are buildings proclaiming their 16th century origins, and they are in
abundance.
I was recently taken to what is supposedly one of
the
oldest London pubs in existence. Again, this pub is not only hidden
from the guidebooks and the common information sources, it is also
hidden from the public! I had to be taken there, as I would never have
been able to find it unless accompanied. This pub is hidden from the
world. It is sandwiched between two narrow streets and therefore
completely obscured from any main thoroughfare. It has its own
courtyard and as you stand supping a pint outside, it is as if you are
in Victorian London. Look down the misty streets and it is easy to
conjure up an old bobby on the beat blowing his whistle, or Jack the
Ripper lurking in the shadows. Oh - and there’s a 150 year old tree
growing through the building, to add to the oddity of the pub.
Hampstead is another great area waiting to be
discovered. Covered in green spaces, Hampstead (North London) is
perfect for the idyllic setting combined with the close proximity to
the big-smoke. Steeped in its own folklore, Hampstead was home to Dick
Turpin (apparently he was born at the Spaniard’s Inn – hugely popular
and famous pub on the Heath) of which his ghost still roams Kenwood
house, and the surrounding woodlands. The high streets of Hampstead,
Belsize Park, and the immaculately kept Primrose Hill are possibly the
last untouched-by-commercialism streets in London (no Starbucks here!).
If you want breath-taking views of the city, historical sites detailing
the ‘first entry point into London’, combined with al-fresco dining,
and an altogether more relaxed atmosphere, Hampstead is the place, and
less than 15 minutes on the tube to the city centre! Now do you see why
it seems frustrating that tourists stay in less desirable areas when
they could stay in an altogether more inspiring location, just as close
to all the major attractions?
Of course, Hampstead is one of London’s many
beauty
spots, yet the city is not all about beauty. As with any home to
approximately 10 million people, varied activity is rife. London events
cannot help but affect all, every Londoner has an opinion on the
congestion zone, on the ill-fated Millennium Dome, on Tony Blair, in
fact on any topic you care to mention. Start a conversation with any
London black-cab driver – typically famous for their outspoken views,
and you will find yourself immediately thrown into the debate of the
day.
So, when visiting London do not even attempt to
see it all – you cannot.
In a city where already this year a Roman road has
been
uncovered a mile below ground level dating back to 1 AD, and where
Paddington workers uncovered Brunel’s first iron-bridge – one they
didn’t know existed - London is forever creating wonders on a regular
basis.
enq@VisitHotels.com
www.VisitHotels.com
About Author
MD of Hotel booking agency
VisitHotels.com
Previously in the travel industry for many years (Sales Manager of
London hotels, and before that sailor of the seas on many an
international cruise). Love to write, love to travel, love to exchange
travelling experiences.
enq@visithotels.com