Moreton Island

Moreton Island (including Russell Island, Macleay Island, Lamb Island and Karragarra Island)
Popular day tripper destination to the east of central Brisbane.
To the east of Brisbane lies Moreton Bay which Captain James Cook, when sailing up the coast in 1770, named after James Douglas, the Earl of Morton. After receiving the honour of having a bay named after him the Earl of Morton had to live with the cruel irony that 'Morton' ended up as 'Moreton'. A spelling error in the Hawkesworth edition of Cook's Journal, the error was never changed, and this Moreton become the accepted spelling of the bay. The spelling error was compounded in 1799 when Matthew Flinders decided to name the island to the east of the bay, Moreton Island.

It was Flinders who established that Moreton Island and Stradbroke Island were separated from the mainland. Cook had believed that they were both part of the coastline.

The name of the bay persisted and so, when a penal colony was established at Red Cliff Point in 1824, it became known as Moreton Bay. In fact it wasn't until the establishment of the colony of Queensland in 1859 that Moreton Bay, as a description of the whole district, began to change to Brisbane.

The island became important to shipping in the area when a pilot station was established at the northern end of the island in 1848. Less than a decade later the lighthouse, designed by the famous colonial architect Edmund Blacket, was built at the northern tip of the island. It was the first lighthouse built in Queensland and still stands today.

At various times in the last century the island has been inhabited by Europeans. It was, for some time, a whaling station and later became a tourist resort which was finally closed in the 1960s.

Today Moreton Island is of considerable environmental interest. A huge 192 600-ha wilderness, it is a rare example of a virtually untouched sand island with a wide range of related features, including aeolian landforms, perched lakes, wetlands, and the unusual Mount Tempest which is reputed to be the highest permanent sand dune in the world. It is also claimed that the sand dunes are the steepest in the world.

There are no established roads on the island although 4WD vehicles can be driven along the tracks which run beside the 40-km beach.

There are three trips which can be taken across to Moreton Island. They are all delightful and interesting daytrips which involve travelling from the centre of Brisbane to the appropriate ferry, jetty or wharf. The vehicular ferries travel regularly and are the major means of access.

The appeal of Moreton Island is that, although it is only a few hours by ferry from the centre of Brisbane, it is still relatively untouched and it serves as a reminder of what the Brisbane area was like before it was settled by Europeans.

As Moreton is a sand island it is important to understand the rules of staying on recognised tracks and driving according to the beach-driving rules.

Things to see:   

(a) Trip 1: To Bulwer
The boat harbour at Scarborough is the mooring site for the Combie Trader, a vehicular ferry travelling between the mainland and Bulwer on Moreton Island every day but Tuesdays. The ferry trip takes two hours. Phone (07) 3203 6399 for departure times.

The ferry from Scarborough to Bulwer is an ideal way of experiencing the particular delights of the northern half of Moreton Island. Bulwer is a tiny village which is really geared to deal with the travellers who arrive on the island and require food, bait and supplies.

From Bulwer the most popular routes across Moreton Island are to North Point and across to the island's eastern beaches. The roads pass through the thick forests of the Moreton Island National Park and at various points it is possible to stop and admire the island's large dunes and freshwater lakes (Lake Jabiru - the largest lake on the island is located to the south of the Bulwer-Cape Moreton track and Blue Lagoon is inland from the beach near the south-eastern road from Bulwer).

There are two major tracks to the east from Bulwer. Both head east from the village for 5 km. The northern track, which is 8 km long, leads out to Cape Moreton and North Point.

The major structure of interest in the area of Cape Moreton and North Point is the lighthouse which was built at Cape Moreton in 1857. It was designed by the famous colonial architect Edmund Blacket who was responsible for the main quadrangle at Sydney University. Blacket was the colony's pre-eminent architect at the time. The Cape Moreton lighthouse was the first built in Queensland and was a vital aid to shipping trying to enter the shallow and complex waters of Moreton Bay.

It is possible to drive south along the beach from the lighthouse and to join the other major road from Bulwer south of the Blue Lagoon. The southern track heads east from the village for 5 km and then heads south-east for 8 km until reaching the beach. It passes the Blue Lagoon.

(b) Trips 2 and 3: To Tangalooma and Kooringal
The Moreton Venture is a vehicular ferry which runs to both Tangalooma and Kooringal on Moreton Island. The trip takes around 2 hours. A four-wheel drive is a necessity although many journeys to Kooringal at the southern end of the island are for fishing. Phone (07) 3895 1000 for ferry departure details.

Tangalooma was originally established as a whaling station. It closed down as recently as 1962 and more recently has become the location of the one major resort on Moreton Island which also runs a catamaran service to Tangalooma. It departs from Brisbane every day but Monday, tel: (07) 3268 6333.

Like Bulwer in the north, Tangalooma is essentially a departure point. Roads head out of the small village across Moreton Island to the eastern beach and north along the coast to Bulwer. There is a common track for 5 km to the north of Tangalooma. The route then turns either north or east. 7 km east is the island's main beach and it is possible to drive north to Eagers Creek and Mt Tempest, reputedly the highest sand dune in the world.

Alternatively travellers can continue north to the tiny settlement of Cowan Cowan and drive along the island's western coast until they reach Bulwer.

Tangalooma's greatest attraction is the coloured sand desert which lies behind the small settlement. Ask at the jetty for directions.

There are no recognised roads out of Kooringal although there is a route up the eastern beaches. Like the island's other settlements, Kooringal is a tiny village which services 4WD visitors and bushwalkers.

For more information on Moreton Island National Park ring (07) 3408 2710.

The Bay Islands
There are four other small islands in Moreton Bay which can be visited by means of water taxi and vehicular ferry. They have sandy beaches and mangrove foreshores and are popular spots for fishing, swimming, sailing, picnicking and barbecues. There are also cafes, kiosks and restaurants on the islands.

The largest of the four is Russell Island, which has an appealing range of birdlife and native vegetation, such as orange mangroves, wet heath, wildflowers, banksia woodland and eucalypt forest, lending itself to bushwalking. There is a jetty, a beach, a swimming enclosure (adjacent Lions Park, in High St) and a picnic area, with shops and cafes nearby. There is a taxi service on the island , an RSL Club, as well as a motel and a holiday home.

Lamb Island, approximately 1.5 km by 1.5 km, was formerly known by its Aboriginal name, Ngudooroo. A swimming enclosure can be found at the northern end of the island which has rainforest and is known for its sea eagle nests.

The smallest island is Karragarra, which was briefly known as Rabbit Island in the 19th century. Historically, a farming settlement, it is about 4 km long and 500 metres wide and has about 100 inhabitants. It has a swimming enclosure, sandy beach and a jetty with nearby picnic and barbecue facilities, but there are no shops on the island. At 200 Treasure Island Ave is a small museum, featuring eccentric items such as antique miniature prayer books, and a studio displaying the surrealist work of a local artist. It is open from 10.00 a.m. to 3.00 p.m. on the last Sunday of the month, or by appointment, tel: (07) 3409 1225. A rainforest walk can also be enjoyed in the island's north-west.

The fourth island is Macleay Island, which is the second-largest. It offers similar attractions, such as attractive natural environs and aquatic recreation.

Moreton Island

There is evidence on the Island of Aboriginal inhabitance, with the first European settlement in 1848. Moreton Island was also home to the only whaling station in Queensland, which was in operation between 1952 - 1962 at Tangalooma. Sandmining also began on Moreton Island, although has since stopped due to campaigning against it.

Many types of natural environments can be found at various points across Moreton Island. Beautiful forest land can be seen along Middle Road, heathlands can be found along Bulwer-North Point Road, swamps can be seen along the Cowan Bypass Road (with the largest reaching from Comboyuro Point in the north to Ben Ewa along the west coast), and both Perched Lakes and Window Lakes can be found around the Island, with the spectacular Blue Lagoon situated towards the north.

There is a whole host of wildlife on Moreton Island which you can see on the numerous beaches, and along the walking and 4WD trails. Many wading birds can be found on the island, in particular between September and April when many birds migrate from other countries. You may also be lucky enough to see Green and Loggerhead Turtles which often nest between November - February.

In the waters surrounding Moreton Island (part of the Moreton Bay Marine Park) is more wildlife. Creatures you are likely to see include many Dolphins, Dugongs, and also Humpback Whales which can be viewed from Cape Moreton. There is also plenty of different fish species in this area, including Bream, Dart, Flathead, Tailor and Whiting.

The main resort on the island is at Tangalooma Ph: 3268 6333 on the western coast of the island. There are plenty of activities you can get involved in whilst at the resort, including snorkelling, diving, fishing, or just relaxing by the pool. The main attraction, however, is the dolphin feeding which happens early every evening. Unfortunately this is only available to the resort guests, although anyone can go to watch.

Other settlements include Bulwer to the north of the island, Cowan Cowan between Bulwer and Tangalooma and Kooringal to the south of the island. The only accommodation at these settlements are holiday houses and flats, although camping is also available on the island at Ben-Ewa and Comboyuro Point and The Wrecks on the mid west coast and at Blue Lagoon and Eagers Creek on the east coast. You can buy camping permits in Brisbane from the QPWS Ph: 3227 8186, or from the ranger on Moreton Island Ph: 3408 2710.

There are some fabulous 4WD trails around the island, as well as some great walking trails. However, you will need to stay a few days, at least, to explore the island. Walking trails include the Big Sandhills and Little Sandhills where you will see various lakes and wildlife.

Guided tours to the sand dunes enables you to take part in downhill sand tobogganing. Blue Lagoon offers a host of birdlife and wildflowers during Spring. Cape Moreton has nice views across the beautiful sea, North Point offers good fishing as well as swimming, and the Old Telegraph Road offers interesting scenery.

If you are walking you should make sure that you carry a compass, a small first aid kit, and plenty of water. For any keen divers there is also a ship wreck on the western coast which you can visit. If you don’t have your own 4WD then you can join a 4WD tour with Sunrover Expeditions Ph: 3203 4241.

There are 4 ferries operating to the island. Both the Moreton Venture Ph: 3895 1000 and the Tangalooma Flyer Ph: 3268 6333 run to Tangalooma. The Moreton Venture is a vehicle ferry which leaves from Lytton 6 days a week and also travels to Reeders Point, while the Tangalooma Flyer leaves daily from Holt Street, Pinkenba. Another vehicle ferry is the Combie Trader Ph: 3203 6399 which leaves daily from Scarborough, travelling to Bulwer, with the M.V. Sirenia Ph: 3829 0600 leaving fom Redland Point and travelling to Reeders Point.